La Rochelle

West Street in downtown Bar Harbor has most of the remaining large cottages and none are occupied year round these days. La Rochelle caught my eye my first day in town and I pass it frequently. It is a Georgian Revival mansion built in 1903 and is the largest estate built along the shore of West Street in Bar Harbor. The architect was Andrews, Jaques and Rantoul of Boston and the estate was built for George Sullivan Bowdoin. There was no brick factory in the vicinity, so this home was only the second one to be built of brick on Mount Desert Island. The forty-one room, 13,000 square foot lavish chateaux has twelve bedrooms and nine full bathrooms on two acres of land. The home is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Here's an old photo of it:

Mr. Bowdoin was a partner and Treasurer of J.P. Morgan and his father had been a partner in the firm years before. His great grandfather founded Bowdoin College in Brunswick, Maine in 1794. He was the great grandson of Alexander Hamilton and the 4x great grandson of Huguenot Pierre Baudouin who arrived in the province of Maine in 1686 before moving to Boston. Other prominent ancestors include John Winthrop, Thomas Dudley, Moses Grinnell and Pierre Schuyler.

Before arriving in America, the Baudouin's lived in La Rochelle, a seaport in Nouvelle, Aquitaine, France (hence the name of the estate, La Rochelle and New Rochelle in New York). The translation of "La Rochelle" means "little rocks". The Baudouin's fled their country to find relief from religious persecution (the Huguenots were French Protestants).

Beatrix Farrand designed and planted the original gardens at La Rochelle which can still be viewed to this day. She was one of America's most celebrated landscape architects renowned for private gardens, many of which were located in Maine, as well as consulting work for some of the country's most prestigious universities and colleges.

In the early 1940's native son and speculator Bun Cough purchased La Rochelle and the caretaker's cottage across the street where he, his wife Helen and their four children resided until shortly after the Fire of '47.

In 1944 Tristram Colket of Philadelphia and his wife Ethel Dorrance Colket, daughter of John Thompson Dorrance, a chemist who invented condensed soup and eventually became president of the Campbell Soup Company, acquired La Rochelle from Mr. Cough. Tristram, Jr. and Ruth Colket gave the property to the Maine Seacoast Mission in 1972 and it served as their headquarters for the next forty-seven years. In 2019 the Bar Harbor Historical Society purchased the estate in order to preserve the building and grounds for future generations and to display their wonderful collection of local artifacts for public viewing.

This article has some interior shops of it...enjoy! ;)

https://mainehomes.com/larochelle/

With this entry, my Maine blog comes to a close. I came here to train to be a sea kayak guide and had to change my plans half way through when I realized how rigorous and even dangerous it could be, especially with my newly "installed" left knee implant. So now I head back south, about 1650 miles, to new adventures. Thanks for following along! Two parting shots from Bar Harbor... an aerial view and the Happy Clam Shack...

Acadia National Park tour

I didn't want to spring for a $50 National Parks pass, so I used my Bar Harbor employee card to take another free tour. Not feeling guilty since I didn't get paid for the week of training I completed before leaving the class. ;)

The 2 1/2 tour left from the harbor area at 10am with 19 passengers and a great local guide named Heather. She has worked for Fords and Rockefellers here over the years in various capacities and had some interesting insights.

Our first stop was Cadillac Mountain, named for a rather unscrupulous middle class Frenchman who gave himself a title and surname. In 1918, the name of Green Mountain was changed to honor the French explorer Antoine Laumet de La Mothe, sieur de Cadillac. He adopted the “sieur de Cadillac” title upon arrival in North America where he received land including the island of Mount Desert. 

 He was also the inspiration for the name of one of the oldest automobile brands in the world, Cadillac, as well as city of Cadillac, Michigan. Cadillac Mtn is 1530 feet high. It is the highest point along the North Atlantic seaboard and the first place to view sunrise in the United States from October 7 through March 6. It is one of over 20 mountains on Mount Desert Island that were pushed up by earth's tectonic and volcanic forces millions of years ago.

The views were amazing, and I could see the Porcupine Islands below,that I had been paddling around for a week! Looks like a postcard!

Our next stop was a cold water spring,  Sieur de Monts. The spring got its name from Pierre Du Gua de Monts, an early 1600's Lieutenant Governor of New France who was commissioned by King Henry IV in 1603. The King directed Sieur de Monts “to establish the name, power, and authority of the King of France; to summon the natives to a knowledge of the Christian religion; to people, cultivate, and settle the said lands; to make explorations and especially to seek out mines of precious metals.” At that time, Lieutenant Governor Sieur de Monts had authority over all of North America between the 40th and 46th parallels (from Montreal to present day Philadelphia). 

As the first superintendent of Acadia, George B. Dorr built the Spring House over the spring in 1909 and carved “The Sweet Waters of Acadia” on a nearby rock. Today, this location has come to symbolize the enthusiasm and contributions of Dorr and other early twentieth century citizens in the creation and preservation of Acadia National Park.

From there, we went to Thunder Hole.When the right size wave rolls into the naturally formed inlet, a deep thunderous sound emanates. The cause is a small cavern formed low, just beneath the surface of the water. When the wave pulls back just before lunging forward, it dips the water just below the ceiling of the cavern allowing air to enter. When the wave arrives full force, it collides with the air, forcing it out, resulting in a sound like distant thunder. Water may splash into the air as high as 40 feet with a roar!

It was close to high tide, but without the huge swells that create the best sound and splashes. There were still some good splashes!

These wild rose bushes are all along the cliffs at Thunder Hole.

        This is a photo I grabbed off the internet to show the BIG crashing waves at Thunder Hole!

The last stop was Jordan Pond. It is a glacier formed tarn with a maximum water depth of 150 feet. There are steep inclines on the left and right sides. The water is exceptionally clear with an average visibility depth of 45+ feet, but this has been measured as high as 60 feet, the most ever recorded in the State of Maine. Swimming is not allowed, but canoes and kayaks are permitted.

 

Nearby is Jordan Pond House, the only full service restaurant in Acadia. The Jordan Pond House traces its history from 1847. The first settlers conducted a logging operation, establishing a small mill near the foot of the pond. The original farm house was built by the Jordan family of Seal Harbor, for whom the pond and house were named.

Toward the end of the 19th century, the location became a popular recreational area for summer vacationers. As a result, the Jordan Pond House was turned into a small restaurant. ‘The first popovers and tea were served here by Mr. and Mrs. ‘Thomas and Nellie McIntire around 1895. They were responsible for the character and atmosphere of the original Jordan Pond House, with its birch bark dining rooms and massive field stone fireplaces.

John D. Rockefeller, Jr. purchased the property in 1928, and donated it to the National Park Service in 1940, but the McIntires continued to operate the restaurant until their retirement in 1945– after 50 continuous seasons of operation. In 1946, Rockefeller began a company to run the Jordan Pond House restaurant and ensure that the tradition of luncheon, tea and popovers would continue.

 

In 1979, a fire destroyed the original building. The current building was constructed through the fundraising efforts of the local, non-profit Island Foundation.

Another feature we saw in the park is the carriage roads. Forty-five miles of rustic carriage roads, the gift of philanthropist John D. Rockefeller Jr. and family, weave around the mountains and valleys of Acadia National Park. Rockefeller, a skilled horseman, wanted to travel on motor-free byways via horse and carriage into the heart of Mount Desert Island. His construction efforts from 1913 to 1940 resulted in roads with sweeping vistas and close-up views of the landscape.

The roads were built to preserve the line of hillsides and save trees, align with the contours of the lands, and take advantage of scenic views. Approximately 16 feet wide, the carriage roads are an example of broken-stone roads commonly used at the turn of the 20th century. Gate lodges act as impressive welcomes to the carriage road system, stone-faced bridges span streams, waterfalls, motor roads, and cliff sides. Granite coping stones used as guardrails line the roads, affectionately called "Rockefeller's teeth."

Today, carriage roads have multiple-uses as they did in the past. Pedestrians, cyclists, and horse-drawn carriages enjoy the beauty, access, and safety of these auto-free roads across the park

         When the tour ended, we headed back to downtown Bar Harbor. Another great day...

Seal Harbor, Little Long Pond and my neighborhood...

Along Route 3, before arriving in the village of Seal Harbor, I came upon Bracy Cove on my right (above) and Little Long Pond on my left.

Little Long Pond has 17 acres of meadows, 12 acres of marsh, a bog, crystal clear streams, and nearly 1,000 acres of forest.  On a one-hour walk you can hear croaking frogs, watch an osprey fish, spot a pileated woodpecker, and take in breathtaking views of surrounding mountains. John D. Rockefeller Jr. purchased the land around Little Long Pond for its scenic value. The land was privately owned until 2015 when, in celebration of his 100th birthday, David Rockefeller Sr. donated it to the Land Garden Preserve. Martha Stewart has a mansion nestled in the hillside above Seal Beach, and you can read about it and see pictures here:   https://flowermag.com/martha-stewarts-summer-getaway-skylands/

It was originally built in 1925 for Henry Ford's son, Edsel. 

Instead of following Rt 3 into the tiny village, I hooked around to the south onto a winding residential road call Cooksey Drive because it hugged the water and looked more interesting. It was a thick forest,  hilly with huge homes and beautiful views. Worth the detour... 

                                   An old cemetery on the way back into Bar Harbor... 

A few blocks up the hill from the house where I'm living is the Kebo Valley Golf Club. It's a public course now, very challenging, with an interesting history. 

It is currently the 8th oldest golf course in the United States and was started in 1894. Among its amenities were a Shingle-style clubhouse with a theater/ballroom, reading room, dining room, horse racetrack, and the golf course. 

The popular summer club was typically the first to announce the official start of the social season for Maine’s summer visitors, and the New York Times often published the results of Kebo’s weekly golf tournaments. Herbert Leeds, sportsman, golfer, and golf course designer, laid out the first six holes four years after the club was incorporated. Following national trends, in the early 1920s, this course was expanded and revised to 18 holes. Here's an old post card/photo:

 A block down the hill is one of the many "lobster pound" places. This one is a bit more reasonable than some. They only had live lobsters and I couldn't imagine boiling it myself, so I got blueberry jam instead ;)

 

 

 

Lighthouse and Puffins boat tour and Oli's Trolly

This weekend, I decided to take a 40 minute narrated Oli's Trolly tour of downtown Bar Harbor. It was great! The guide told us about local lore and the devastating 1947 fire that burned most of the huge "cottages". He said his ancestors were original rusticators here 6+ generations ago and he retired here with his wife after a NASA career in DC. They winter in Key West. It was a really informative tour and he had lots of great stories. On Saturday, what's left of my guide class (3 out of 9 have dropped out now) took their 3rd and final ALL day paddle to practice tandem kayak capsizes and cold water rescues. Bundled in fleece, I was grateful to hop on the 9:30AM Lighthouse and Puffins 2 1/2 hour boat tour! 😁

Our tour vessel... Friendship V, a jet powered catamaran

On the way out of the harbor...the Margaret Todd Schooner and Bar Harbor Inn

View of the mountainous coastline of Frenchman Bay, named for Samuel de Champlain, the French explorer who mapped and explored the area in 1604. As archaeological evidence has shown in the form of Native American artifacts and several hundred shell heaps, the area also served as the summer home for Wabanaki tribes. The Abbe Museum here has one of the best collections of their artifacts anywhere, and I hope to visit it soon.

 

Our first stop was Egg Rock Lighthouse. It was built in 1875 and is one of coastal Maine's architecturally unique lighthouses, with a square tower projecting through the square keeper's house. Located on Egg Rock, midway between MDI and the Schoodic Peninsula, it is an active aid to navigation, flashing red every 40 seconds. The island is owned by the US Fish and Wildlife Service and is surrounded by rocks covered with sunning seals. Porpoises also frequent the waters around it.

Seals with their pups

Our 2nd stop, above and below, was Petit Manon Island and lighthouse, built in 1855. It is part of the extensive Maine Coastal Islands National Wildlife Refuge Complex. Our guide radioed one of the scientists on the island to ask about their activities and bird sightings, allowing us to ask questions. USFWS initiated a seabird restoration effort in 1984, and removed predatory gulls from the island. Terns returned to the island within one week of the predator control effort and have continued to nest on the island every year. In 2005, Petit Manan Island supported 1,007 pairs of common terns, 595 pairs of Arctic terns, nine pairs of roseate terns, 51 pairs of Atlantic puffin, 1,151 pairs of laughing gulls, and one pair of razor bills. Common eider, Leach’s storm-petrel, and black guillemot also nest on the island. Migratory and wintering shorebirds and waterfowl feed on the surrounding inter-tidal ledges throughout the year.

Puffins!

 

 

 

 

Below, our fantastic tour guide. He is from Guatamala and got a geology degree at Rutgers. His knowledge of all the birds we saw was amazing. He was thrilled to spot a trio of oyster catchers flying above, saying it was a rare occurrence in the area, and that they usually fly in pairs.  He said there are 66 lighthouses in Maine and that Michigan has the most with 124. Who knew?

                              Above, a huge eagle's nest in the treetop at 12 o'clock (3 chicks in it!)

Winter Harbor Lighthouse, above, is located on Mark Island, a small island between the Schoodic Peninsula and Turtle Island, near the entry to the town's main harbor. The light was built in 1856 and was deactivated in 1933. It is no longer an aid to navigation and is privately owned with no indoor plumbing, cell service or real amenities. For many years, the station also had a fog bell with automatic striking machinery. Over the years, its owners have included authors, an interior designer and a playwright. It has an interesting history if you have a minute:

http://www.newenglandlighthouses.net/winter-harbor-light-history.html

An osprey nest on a channel marker

Then we slowed at the rugged unspoiled cliffs of Ironbound Island. Wild Atlantic dulse, or seaweed, is harvested here and sold. It grows on north-facing cliffs and shady crevices. The blood red plants branch into many small lobed fronds and dry to a deep purple. It has a long tradition in the cuisines of many Northern European cultures. It is rich in potassium, iron, iodine and trace elements. 

This island was owned by Dwight Blaney and if you have a minute, read the story of him, the island and its many famous visitors:

http://thedowneastdilettante.blogspot.com/2010/06/art-down-east-mr-blaney-of-ironbound.html

All in all, another great excursion...

The Asticou Inn

Leaving NE Harbor the other day, I passed the historic Asticou Inn and stopped to take a look. 

The original, built in 1885, burned to the ground in 1900 and was replaced by the current building the next year. It's one of MDI's treasures, so I'm devoting a blog post to it...

I borrowed this history from the Inn's website... (more photos at the end!)

"Asticou is first mentioned in a 1608 English document as headman of an Indian village of what became known as the River of Mount Desert, which was later segmented and renamed Union River, Union Bay River and Blue Hill Bay. Five years later, his name appears in French records as the sakom who welcomed the French to his summer village on the southeastern shore of Somes Sound.In 1798, the Savage family settled their homestead on the land at the head of Northeast Harbor. Those first Savages were industrious and multi-talented. They were seaman, fisherman, hunters, farmers, housekeepers, and lumbermen. Three generations later in 1854, Augustus Chase Savage and Emily Manchester Savage built their home atop a hill overlooking the harbor. This cottage is now known as Cranberry Lodge, and is the oldest of the Asticou-Inn buildings in use today. In 1870, the Savages began housing boarders, and so began the tradition of lodging at the Asticou-Inn. In the 1870’s, a now retired sea captain and entrepreneur, A.C. Savage, foresaw that the rusticator boom, which had built up in Bar Harbor, would soon spill over to neighboring Northeast Harbor. The main Inn was constructed and began welcoming its first guests in 1884. The original building burned down in 1900, but it was rebuilt, grander than ever, and opened in the summer of 1901. Over the years, it has lodged some of America’s greatest social and political leaders. These high-profile guests would stay, not just several days or weeks, but often for the entire summer. In Boston, Philadelphia, and New York, they would speak of, and look forward to the “season” on Mount Desert Island. In 1941, when the United States was thrust into World War II, normal operations at the Asticou-Inn were suspended, so that all could join the war effort. The Inn was not reopened until 1946. In October of 1947, Mount Desert Island was ravaged by a terrible wildfire. Nearly 17,000 acres on the eastern half of the island were consumed in the blaze. Many of Bar Harbor’s great “cottages” were destroyed, as well as many of the grand hotels and restaurants. The towns of Seal Harbor and Northeast Harbor were the only areas spared from this disaster.

During this period of the Asticou-Inn’s history, it was run by Charles and Katharine Savage, the third of his lineage to manage the Inn. In addition to being a dedicated Innkeeper, Charles Savage was a man of many skills and interests. He was a skilled wood carver, and some of his carvings, such as the “Canterbury Tales” piece, can still be seen on the mantel over the fireplace at the Northeast Harbor library. He was also the chief landscape architect of the Azalea Gardens and Thuya Gardens, which can be visited across the street from the Inn. In the early 1960’s, both the Asticou-Inn and Kimball House, also in Northeast Harbor, were sold to the Asti-Kim Corporation. This group was composed of local businesspeople and summer residents, who wished to see the tradition of the large hotels preserved for the future. As large hotels fell out of favor with the advent of the motel, it seemed only one of the two could survive. The Kimball House was torn down, but the Asticou-Inn has survived to this day, still an integral part of Mount Desert, and the Northeast Harbor community."

I snapped a photo of the harbor and pool as viewed from the restaurant balcony. Wow!

Then I walked across the street to explore the Asticou Azalea garden. It was created by Charles Savage in 1958 with elements of a classic Japanese garden to highlight similarities between MDI and Japan. The garden includes blueberries, mosses, stones, a sand garden, exotic azaleas, rhododendrons, and a freshwater stream, stepping stones and a pond. Enjoy!

Today, I'm going to catch one of the sightseeing boats or ferry trips from the pier... will post that soon! ;)